Serious question, I had to pick between a razor cut and shears for a thick, wavy bob

My client wanted a lot of movement but her hair was super dense, so I had to choose between using my Feather razor or my regular 6-inch shears. I went with the razor because I thought it would give a softer, more textured finish on her wave pattern. It worked out really well and she loved how light it felt, but I did have to be extra careful not to over-texturize the ends. Has anyone else had to make that call on thick hair recently?

3 comments

3 Comments

jadel652mo ago

That point about being careful not to over-texturize the ends is the whole thing for me. With a razor on thick hair, it's not just about the finish you get that day. I always worry about how those ends will grow out and hold up over the next few months. A razor can make them a bit more fragile, and on dense hair, those clients might not notice the wear until a split end travels way up. Shears give a cleaner, stronger line for the hair to grow from, even if the initial feel isn't quite as airy. It's a trade-off between instant movement and long-term health of the shape.

the_jenny2mo ago

So how do you decide which clients get the razor?

emerycarr1mo ago

@jadel65 makes a good point about long term health, but I think that trade off gets overstated. With thick hair, especially coarse strands, a razor can actually prevent that pyramid look shears sometimes create if you're not careful with internal layering. The key is knowing when to stop with the razor, not assuming it's always going to damage ends. I've got clients with thick hair who've been getting razor cuts for years and their ends look better than some shear clients who end up with split ends from the weight of their own hair pulling. Plus, if you're doing the right texturizing technique and not overdoing it, those ends grow out looking softer and more blended, not frayed. It's about matching the tool to the hair type and the client's lifestyle, not blanket rules about long term health.